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Thanks for this informative vid. I agree with U about how disgraceful it is to have to throw to landfill. You inspired me to have a go replacing the brushes, so if anyone needs tips on that and the specs... ruclips.net/video/IF30z4yjNVI/видео.htmlfeature=shared Thanks again

60MOhm leak to Earth at 220-240V is not enough to trip a domestic RCD. It's 0.0000036A or 0.0036mA. You need 30mA to trip a domestic RCD. That reading doesn't indicate an element failure to me?

Worked a treat!;) thankyiu

Is there a fuse inside?

I got the first model of the MX5 (1049) and it's better constructed. This newer (and more expensive, fancy that!) version is obviously built as cheap as possible, The 1049 model of the MX5 have several filter coils on the primary side, MOV, diodes and resistors are through hole. A lot more going on to protect the charger. Larger cooling plates. Whole layout is different. 1049 also has a large silicon gasket which seals it from water ingress completely. Only thing functionally different is that the 1049 only has 4 programs, you can't combine small battery with recond for example. Being a Swede I actually tried to call and talk to the company because I had some technical questions, but they were totally uninterested in any "normal" customer contact. I got 2 newer models of the MX5, I'll have to take a look inside those too. I've been using mostly the more expensive MX5 Polar (-30C model) for the last couple of years and it's still working good, but huge thanks for this great video which will help immensely if I run into problems!

Hi, really enjoyed your video and creative repair of the milk frothed but how do you check the thyristor and where do I get a replacement thermocouple? Thanks for the videos which are great.

I’m having a similar issue, car has overheated and I’ve realised that the radiator fan isn’t working as it is usually constantly running when the A/C is on and it now isn’t. I’ve also had the engine up to temperature and the fan still won’t kick in. I’ve tested the relay and can hear it clicking so presume that’s okay. I’ve got 14v to the connector for the fan motor when the engine is running. So I believe it to be the fan motor. I bought a fan from a breakers. Put 12v to it and it worked so I fitted it. It worked for about 5 minutes before it stopped working. I did all the same tests again and they were all fine, presumed faulty fan from the breakers. Took the fan out and when connecting 12v to it, it runs, but it doesn’t run well. I went and got another fan motor from U-PULL-IT as I wanted to test whether this would act the same and it does. The fan will run with 12v from a battery but won’t run when in the car. The fan blades turn freely and aren’t restricted. The plug looks fine so the power is definitely getting there. Any thoughts?

Thanks for this video! For a while, I thought I was me doing something wrong! I bought xw6 and hbd366 rolls, they were all melting at lead free temp 😮 My intended use for it was to make lead free desoldering more easy. Now, I'm thinking of buying bismuth sticks.

Do you still have a spare?

Did you bother locking the flywheel for when you torque the crank back down?

where are you located I need one fixed

Legend! Exact same problem. Fixed within 24 hours with a part from Amazon.

I have exactly the same issue and it was really helpful (and entertaining) to see this video. You mentioned that you have parts available and I'd love to be able to purchase the 47ohm resistor and the Power Integrations chip from you. Is this still possible?

Hello and thanks! I build speakers and can't stand those connectors. I will only solder the wires directly to the driver's tabs once the final assembly is made. Are JBL even doing any soak testing to identify potential problems like this?

I've got an old Zanussi Electrolux ZDF 231 S which has for the first time, just started to trip the RCD in the consumer unit, so I shall bear in mind what you have said and go exploring the cause, good advice, thank you.

@razenby Just suffered the same problem - tripped the RCD. Do you have any more heating element imports left and are you still maintaining these systems all these years later? Please could you drop me an email so I can contact directly? Thanks!

The pressure switches tend to get scaled up and get jammed

why dont use the sucker in the 1st place? melt 1 pin, suck melt 1 pin, suck

Hi, I have eon 515xt with unusual fault. There is a problem with hf amp section. Sometimes it have no or very little hf output and most of the time the hf output compared to another speaker is very little lower. I checked the power supply voltage across this big capacitors seems ok there is couple volts difference. This big resistor near the hf amp seems ok too. The hf amp is getting 49v across VP+ VP- and 24,5 from them to ground. I checked the frequency characteristic and it had little differences compared to good amp module. The differences are around 1,7khz and 12-15khz. For example when good one was giving 11,1v at 12khz the broken one gives 10,5v with the same signal and when good one is giving 2,8v at 1,7khz the broken one gives 2,2v. I have it dissembled and I really can't force it to fault I tried heating the mixing board with hair drier and it was still working ok. What should I check?

Hi this is compatible for sounddock portable?

Interesting. I’ve had a couple D2’s quit. Now I wonder about water ingress.

Can you pls share a link to buy screwdriver

Use a suction bulb and you’ll not waste solder.

Wow you’ve saved me a lot of grief been trying to fault find this for hours , stumbled across you video removed the switch and limp mode was deactivated, just waiting for new switch now

Hi, my unit blinks 5 times with both source LEDs when connected to mains (which means hardware error due to the manufacturer's website) then it does only react to remote (flashes the corresponding source LED). No sound, no beeps, BT module LEDs do not lit up. What could be the problem?

Will ICE5BR4780BZ work as well for replacement? The ICE3Bxx65J is EOL... If it is not a drop in replace, what should be done to make it work? Is this newer replacemnt more resilient in terms of bootstrap currents?

Just repaired my Karcher k3 the plastic cylinder head split leaking water, it’s 4yrs old so 4 seasons of just washing patio. Cost £50 for head and elbow but head is same part number not modified so same problem is going to happen. In my naivety I thought karcher was German but looking at everyone’s faults it just Chinese plastic shyte !

Good to know!👍

The problem with your karcher is the pressure relief valve is sticking. This is located below the pipe for the soap feed. The piston needs removing and lubricating.

Which is better Noco genius 5 made in Vietnam or China ?

Hi, can you help me please? I have a Hotpoint integrated dishwasher. After 11 years of sterling service, it has started to play up. The problem first appeared a couple of weeks ago, when the dishwasher refused point blank to turn on. I changed the 13A fuse in the main plug & the dishwasher powered up as normal. It then went through a full Eco cycle with both heating cycles taking the normal wattage (typically 2.3kW) for the usual amount of time. However after completing what looks like a normal 3½ hour cycle, the fuse in the plug had blown again! Not wanting to faff about, I ordered a new updated version of my dishwasher from Hotpoint. It was delivered okay but when the guys tried to fit it, they physically couldn't! They reckon the guy that fitted our new kitchen 11 years ago effectively built it AROUND the dishwasher! Thankfully the people at Hotpoint were very understanding & gave me a full refund. However, now I'm a bit stuck. If I had some idea of what's causing this issue, maybe there's a chance it could be repaired with the machine remaining in situ. Failing that I guess I'm going to have to get someone in to dismantle bits of the kitchen to get the old one out but this seems a such of a drastic step! Thanks for any advice you might be able to share.

Really enjoyed this, thank you.

can it measure current below 100micro amps

Does the pulse repair mode have automatic shutting "OFF" display when pulse repair completed? Or they run forever ?

Btw I am working with the Soundock 10 and there's no voltage in the secondary. Can you help me get all the components that you just replaced in your video? It would be a great help. Thank you.

Thank you

Awesome video mate, took me less than 5 minutes, took it off adjusted the length and cleaned it as it wasn’t broken and it’s working like it should.

I have replaced the 1k resistor which was O/C but when selector switch is turned there is still no flashing light. I have recheck the resistor and found it is normal so hasn’t gone O/C. The chip physically looks ok so is there anything else which could be the cause?

saved my machine after watching a lot of your videos, 5 resistors 2 triacs and an npn, thanks

I have an X-lite 112a which keeps cutting out after about 15 mins of use at about 50% volume. I'm a newbie to this, but have had a look at the board and there's nothing obvious, but do you know why this might be happening?

I have never had a decent Bose product EVER! The stuff is crap. Bose, no highs, no lows. Crap! Just like JVC.

Thanks so much a lot of work and so much for this video. what brand of glow plugs did you use?

Had a hoover tumble dryer for quite a few years, the on/off switch burnt out, half the wiring to the switch overheated and went all brittle, so i replaced the switch and redid the wiring, only for it happen again a couple of years later, worse this time, a lot of smoke, tripped the electrics and judging by all the charred and blackness around it, probably a small fire that didnt take hold, thankfully. Ended up chucking it and buying a new smart candy tumble dryer, not realising that they're basically the same thing as hoover. Only had the it a few years and hence why i am here, a connector on the back of the pcb board has melted and damaged the board, new board around £100, which sod that, and i am sure it will only happen again and risk a fire? poorly made crap if you ask me. Another brand i will steer well clear of.

Nice job. Presume the components omitted in order to down manufacture cost/ selling price. Likely in known violation of the C.E. non-interference compliance standard - as marked on back plate of the charger?

Really helpful! On their website I couldn’t find anything that clear. For me it did solve the problem. Thank you.

Honestly people like you who break these repairs down in this clear and concise way are doing god's work. Thanks! As always things with springs can be hazardous so specs on at all times!

Thank you so much for this!! I've just been through 3 sheets of paper breaking before even touching the floor and I couldn't understand why. Appreciate it 👍

Where do you get the device?

Excellent Video. I did my own repair following your video on how to do it. I did however put in a 250V, 133C, 2 A thermal fuse instead because I couldn't get hold of a normal 4A fuse as you suggested. So I was a bit nervous when I turned on the milk Frother ... but it worked and still do. Thanks for the great repair video.

I got the same dehumidifier, but I think it no working properly, the fun works , the compressor works but the dehumidifier just works for about 4 minutes and stops... Do you know what's the reason for that ? Thanks in advance